Bau – Fairy Cave

Bau is a small town about 30km away from Kuching.  There are many limestone mountains surrounding the town which hold potential for rock climbing. But so far only Gunung Sireh – with the famous Fairy Cave – has seen development.

Access

Staircase Wall is free, just walk under the pedestrian walkway to the wall.

Fairy Cave Wall and Nepenthes Wall are within the Fairy Cave Nature Reserve under Sarawak Forestry Corporation with an entrance fee of RM1 for citizens and RM5 for foreigners.

Tiger Wall, Orchid Wall, Stage Wall and Batman Wall are under the Kampong Krokong “Koperasi Fairy Cave Heritage Kuching Bhd” recently and the price is RM50 for a party of 2, RM100 for a group up to 10 and RM200 for an even larger group of climbers. Call Joseph at +60138035516 to arrange opening the gate.

The Zoo Wall is located at the Red Turn Mini Zoo, which is currently closed for renovation (Sept. 2014). You can call the manager Anna at +60-11-140 77138 to arrange climbing there.

How to Get Here

Fairy Cave (Gua Pari Pari) is a major tourist attraction. It is best to go by car. The Red Turn Mini Zoo is also a known attraction.

Morning/Afternoon Sun

Except north-west-facing Zoo Wall all sections are facing southwest and enjoy all-day shade all day from April to September. From October to March the sun shines on these walls, however, trees provide some shade. From December to April the rock also get wet as it is Wet (i.e. heavy rain) Season. An exception is Batman Wall and Stage Wall, which can be climbed year-round and even in pretty averse weather conditions.  This is due to a large roof, which provides shade until 1pm even in December and also keeps off the rain.


Sector and Route Description

The sectors and routes are listed and numbered from left to right. Routes with a “*” are of high quality.
A climbing guide is available from Malcolm: email borneo4x4@gmail.com, phone +60 12 888 6460

Zoo Wall

GPS Coordinates:  1°23’17.8″N, 110°07’02.0″E

Long routes on solid rock. The wall is facing northwest and is in the shade in the morning most of the year, however the trees provide additional shade. It is also sufficiently protected from rain from April to October. Turn into the road to Serikin (Indonesian Market) and park after 200m at the Red Turn Mini Zoo and Restaurant on your left. Opening Hours 9am-5pm, closed Mondays. Walk down the main path and turn left at the deer cage.
2015 update: The Red Turn Zoo is under renovation but climbers are welcome if the manager is informed. Call Anna (01114077138) or if you can’t reach her then her sister Lilly (0128599787).

# Name Grade
m
Bolts
Slings First Ascent
The Incredible Roof* 6c 29 10 Alexander Hölke, Apr. 2011
Chxqo* 5b 22 9 Noh Muhammad, Aug. 2010
Amy The Last
5b 18 8 Doni Dahari, Oct. 2010
Ext: Sidewinder
6c 28 12 Alexander Hölke, Oct. 2011

Staircase Wall

GPS Coordinates:  1°22’53.9″N, 110°07’02.0″E

This sector is located just to the left of the large staircase tower at the Fairy Cave entrance at the end of the road. You can enter for free.

# Name Grade
m
Bolts
Slings First Ascent
Take It Easy 5b 12 5 Malcolm Jitam, Aug. 2011
Middleton 5b 12 5 Malcolm Jitam, Aug. 2011
Crux Deluxe 5b 10 4 Malcolm Jitam, Aug. 2011

Fairy Cave Wall

GPS Coordinates:  1°22’53.9″N, 110°07’02.0″E

Multi-pitch climbing and abseiling are the fun here. Route ① starts just to the left of Staircase Wall. For the other routes a Batman Start is required (see Batman Wall) with the additional challenge that the second climber needs to ascend the rope by himself.

# Name Grade
m
Bolts
Slings First Ascent
No Pants All Gain
  Pitch 1 6c 10 Hans Breuer, November 2013
  Pitch 2 6c 10 Mel Jitam, February 2014
 54 Pump Street
6b Malcolm Jitam, 2014
  Pitch 1 6b
  Pitch 2 6b
Fists Of Fairy* 6b+ Ch’ien Lee and Glen MacNair, 2005
  Pitch 1 6a+  20
  Pitch 2 6b  15
  Pitch 3 6b+ 10  5
 Project

Nepenthes Wall

GPS Coordinates:  1°22’53.9″N, 110°07’02.0″E

This is a small wall with a few short intermediate routes. Get your ticket for Fairy Cave then enter the cave up the concrete pathway leading to the large opening. Follow a small trail to the right from the wooden viewing platform to get to the wall.

# Name Grade
m
Bolts
Slings First Ascent
Crack Slacker  5c 10 4 Mel Jitam, Aug. 2009
Snake Charmer* 6c 10 3 Ch’ien Lee, Sept. 2002
Ang Moh China 6a+ 10 3 Ch’ien Lee, Aug. 2002
Sofanochet 5c 10 4 Glen MacNair, Oct. 2002

Tiger Wall

GPS Coordinates: 1°22’53.7″N, 110°07’04.2″E

From Batman Wall area walk left along the jungle trail until you see the end of the fenced-in area. This is a slightly leaning to vertical wall, suitable for beginners. Best quality routes are ②,③,④ as the other routes have lower rock quality and are wet most of the time.

# Name Grade
m
Bolts
Slings First Ascent
Outer Space
6b 25 12 1 Andy Popeye Su, Apr. 2012
Var: Inner Space 6b 26 13 1 Noh Muhammad, June 2012
Thanks Andy* 6a 20 10 Malcolm Jitam, Apr. 2012
Space Invaders* 6b 10 5 Alexander Hölke, July 2012
At Last!* 5c 20 7 Eunice Lin, Apr. 2012
Take Five 6c 25 13 Ateng Safardi, May 2012
Boulder 6b+ 20 8 Mel Jitam, July 2012
Happy Ending
6c 23 12 Ateng Safardi, July 2012
Tubi or Man Tubi
6b 25 13 Derek Cheng, Aug. 2012
Kuching Hero
7b+ ? ? Andy Popeye Su, May 2013
Both Sides of 50 6a+ 18 8 Eunice Lin, Nov. 2012
Var: Sense of Victory 6a+ 22 11 Eunice Lin, ?
Balls Of Brass 6b 15 5 Ryan Weller, Aug. 2012

The Groove

GPS Coordinates: 1°22’53.4″N+110°07’04.8″E

Short climbs on a bouldery wall with two longer routes to the right. Walking from the Batman Wall parking lot left this is the first wall after the small bridge.

# Name Grade
m
Bolts
Slings First Ascent
Fat Fingers
6a+ 5 2 Ryan Weller, Aug. 2012
Toprope Problem 6b 5 Noh Muhammad, ? 2012
Oh My English
6b+ 5 ? Ryan Weller, Aug. 2012
Rumble in the Jungle
7a+ 21 8 Simon Wilson, July 2013
Welcome to the Jungle
6c 19 7 Simon Wilson, July 2013

Orchid Wall

GPS Coordinates: 1°22’53.4″N+110°07’05.3″E

This is a slightly overhanging to vertical wall. In the shade all day May-Sept. Walk right from The Groove up the slope.

# Name Grade
m
Bolts
Slings First Ascent
Baby’s Song
7b+ 19 9 Sunny Yang, Apr. 2014
Popeye’s Vacation* 6c 28 12 Andy Popeye Su, Jan 2012

Stage Wall

GPS Coordinates:  1°22’52.6″N, 110°07’08.2″E

This is located at the Batman Wall area, just walk left to the concrete stage to the small wall. On the weekends there will be Karaoke playing after 2pm so climbing is not possible. This wall is also totally sheltered from rain but still tends to get wet during the rainy season from seeping water. It features the easiest route “Baby Climb” at Fairy Cave so it is popular with beginners.

# Name Grade
m
Bolts
Slings First Ascent
Angin Angin
 5c 8 4 Jimen, July 1999
No Name
6b 8 4 ?, July 1999
Nama Bodo
6a+ 8 4 Daron, July 1999
Baby Climb*
5a 5 3 ?, July 1999

Batman Wall

GPS Coordinates:  1°22’52.6″N, 110°07’08.2″E

Batman wall is the crown jewel among Sarawak’s climbing places. If you can confidently climb 6b or harder you will have plenty of fun:  More than  20 routes plus variants side-by-side, which can be climbed year round and even when it rains heavily. Only one route has a normal ground-up start (③ Two Egg Bacon Burger) – all other routes require a “Batman Start” with a clip-stick and hoisting by you and your partner. You may no be able to locate the climbs without the help of a local climber – even with the nice topo of a climbing guide. Presently only route ⑤ Happy Feet and ⑨ 999 are labeled with a sign – you best start from there.

# Name Grade
m
Bolts
Slings First Ascent
Boleh Bah Kalau Kau 6a 16 6 1 Beverly Tam, Aug. 2012
The Joker 6b+ 19  7 1 Alexander Hölke, Apr. 2012
Bacon Burger* 6b 12 6 Alexander Hölke, Jan. 2009
Pickpocket 6b+ 15 7 Noh Muhammad, Aug. 2011
Happy Feet*
6b 15 7 Alexander Hölke, Aug. 2011
Bomba Chimney 6b+ 15 7 Ateng Safardi, Aug. 2011
Jitam Rodeo* 6b 15 8 Mel Jitam, June 2011
Pitch2 (End Of The Universe)
6a+ ? ? Andy Popeye Su, May 2013
Pitch3
6b+ ? ? Yi Chuan, May 2013
Meteorite
6c 15 8 Ch’ien Lee, April 2003
Ext: Meet Your Maker 6c 27 12 1 Damien Su, Aug. 2012
999* 6b  15 8 Jimen, July 1999
Kapur Chimney  6b+ 20 9 John Norman, July 1999
Ext.* 6b+ 26 12 Alexander Hölke, Nov. 2008
Pitch 2 (project) 20 8
Cicak* 7b+ 20 7 Simon Wilson, July 1999
Simtoi* 7b 20 8 Garth Miller, July 1999
Bas Laici* 7a 15 6 Simon Wilson, July 1999
Jonny Be Good* 7c 20 9 Garth Miller, July 1999
Jansson’s Temptation* 7a+ 20 7 Christer Jansson, Mar. 2000
Grime Alley 7b+ 15 7 Ch’ien Lee, Dec. 2007
Laba Laba* 6c+ 17 9 Alexander Hölke, Feb. 2009
Ext: Titu Titu 7a 27 16 Yi Chuan, May 2013
Fledermaus* 7a+ 20 10 Alexander Hölke, July 2009
Ext: Rama-Rama 7b? 35 17 Andy Popeye Su, Jan. 2014
Robin* 7a 20 9 Asang Nikander, April 2010
Buzz Lightyear* 7b 30 11 Alexander Hölke, April 2011
21 Noh came Late 7a+ 20 7 Noh Muhammad, Dec. 2011
22 Shark Attack  7b+ 20 9 Alexander Hölke, Jan. 2013
23 Snake skin 6c+ 12 7 Noh Muhammad, Nov. 2012
24 Papa Swing 7b+ 27 9 1 Alexander Hölke, Mar. 2014
25 project 27 9
26 bolting project 20

7 thoughts on “Bau – Fairy Cave

  1. Hi guys, we’re here for two weeks and would be keen to climb Bau. Anyone know where to get hold of a copy of the guide book?

    1. Unfortunately, I have only found this message (late as it may be). We have guide books. Contact me directly: Malcolm 012 888 6460

    1. nos asombrará la confianza con que ma¡neÃjbamos libros de papel con toda su “carga biológica” de bacterias, hongos, polvoA mi ya me asombra, ya, bueno, más que en los libros en los CD y DVD, y esos, así o parecidos, van a durar…

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