Damai Wall

Damai Wall is the ideal climbing area if you are bringing kids. Gua Damai Extreme Park is setup like a park/ children’s playground. Parking lots available close to the wall.

Access

The area is maintained by Gua Damai Extreme Park. There is no charge if you are climbing with friends, but there is a per head charge for commercial rock climbing.

How to Get Here

GPS Coordinates: 3°14’52.1″N 101°41’14.7″E

The easiest way to get to Gua Damai Extreme Park is via Grab. You can take the commuter train to Batu Cave or the LRT to Gombak station but you still need to hitch a ride.

Morning/Afternoon Sun

The wall is facing north (NNE to be precise) so best best season to climb is Oct – February with all day shade. The sun is hitting the wall from March – September.

Hardware

A note of caution: Many bolts at Damai are 20 years old zinc-plated expansion bolts from the dawn of Malaysian Sports Climbing. So far apparently none failed, some of the anchor bolts have been replaced by stainless glue-ins and the newer routes have adequate stainless steel bolts and hanger.  However, you should inspect and judge the hardware before committing to a route and especially if you are putting up a top rope for beginners. Bolt marked with an “!” denotes zinc-plated expansion bolts.


Sector and Route Description

All the routes are numbered and listed from left to right.

Damai Wall

Ca. 2002 topo from Wira Adventura, updated numbering.

 

 

# Name Grade
m
Bolts
Slings First Ascent
Akar Molek
5c 15 ? ?
Muji 5c+ 14 ? ?
Puteri 5c+ 9 ? ?
? 6a+  26 ? ?
?
6a+  28 ? ?
Base Jumper 6a+  26 ? ?
Sunday 6a  35 ? ?
Mesin Jahit (Sewing Machine) 6a+  26 ? ?
Senang Gila (Real Easy) 6a  35 ? ? 2013
Tq Doyork 6a+  35 ? ? 2013
Singing Wall 6a  32 ? ? 2013
Aciaci Buka Pintu 6b 23 7 (!) 1 Pak Lah, 2002
Three Brothers
6b 24 7 (!) Mustapha, 2002
Jah Love Climbing*  6a+  24 9 (!) Akmal, 2002
Water On The Rock  6a+ 22 ? (!) Mustapha & Man, 2002
Sasau 6a+ Mustapha & Yen, 2002
  Pitch 1 6a+ 22 10 (!)
  Pitch2 6a+ 25 9 (!)
TJ 6a+ Rozaman & Ayob, 2002
   Pitch 1 6a+ 28 12 (!)
   Pitch 2 6a+ 25 12 (!)
Ichineesanghait 6b Shelley & Sharin, 2002
   Pitch 1 5c 28 13 (!)
   Pitch 2 6b 28 ? (!)
Up Step 5c 30 11 (!) Rozaman, 2002
Sweet Maria 5c ?, 2002
   Pitch 1 5c 22 9 (!)
   Pitch 2 5c 25 8 (?)
21 Duckula 5c 28 11 (!) ?, 2002
22 Permaisuri 5c 28 ? (!) Shelley, 2002
23 Redemption Song 6b Sharin Hashim, 2002
   Pitch 1 5c+ 28  11 (!) 2
   Pitch 2 6a+ 25 7 (!)
   Pitch 3 6b 20 6 (!)
24 Granular Spindrift 5c 14 6 (!) Erik, ?
25 Good Onion* 6b Marco & David, 2002
   Pitch 1 5c 25 6 (!) 2
   Pitch 2 6a 28 9 (!)
   Pitch 3 6b 25 8 (!)
26 Reservoir Doggin’ 5c+ 10 3 (!) Matt Smitch, 2002
27 Monkey Highway 6a 40 n.p. Yen, Yuen Li, 1997
28 Ghana Power 5c 10 3 (!) 1 Matt Smitch, 2002
29 Lead Man 5c 12 2 (!) 3 Yuen Li, 1997
30 Lightning Grip* 6a 18 6 (!) 2 Mustapha, 2002
   Extension 6b 25 10 (!) 2 Akmal Noor, 2003
31 Golly Gully 5c 18 3 (!) 3 Yuen Li, 2002
32 Rainman 6a 16 6 (!) Mustapha, 2002
33 Thunder 6a 15 5 (!) Mustapha, 2002
34 Monsoon** 6b Yen & Mustapha, 2002
   Pitch 1 6a+ 25 10 (!) 2
   Pitch 2 6b 25 10 (!)
   Pitch 3 6a 18 6 (!)

Cave Routes

# Name Grade
m
Bolts
Slings First Ascent



6 thoughts on “Damai Wall

    1. Time to get a proper topo and routelist for Damai going! It is after all the easiest crag to do 🙂

  1. Ahmad, do you know the grades of the routes?

    As an aside, I climbed Granular Spindift on Sunday, and noted that the hangers at the anchor are worn from chain rubbing against it. There was also some slight corrosion on the hanger.

    1. If i recall correctly the two longer routes are:

      6a+ on the left (begins with an overhang)
      6a on the right

      Both will require a 70 meter rope i think

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