Nyamuk Wall

Please note that there was a large fire that burnt this crag on the 26/11/2016. According to reports only the far right side of the Fumakilla sector has been affected. However we do advise to take extra precaution and inspect all bolts and holds during these couple of months following the fire.

Nyamuk is Batu Cave’s most interesting crag for advanced climbers. At the moment there are around 60 routes, ranged from 5a – 8a+, and some projects. The routes are generally steep and long, anchors and bolts are mostly stainless and glue-in´s.  The bulk of routes was set up in 2002 and 2003, and since there was little development. Some of the routes were established after the Climb Malaysia Guidebook came out, so we list down the additional routes. However, the entire Sector Ridsect is overgrown, and Anopheles and Larva are hardly visited (Larva is surrounded by an old chicken cage).

In 2011 some new routes were bolted, two of them in sector Fumakilla, and two projects up high, left of the 3rd pitch of Training Day.

After some clearing (by anonymous ignorants) of the largest trees there is much more light on the routes now, which means more sun and heat in the morning, and also more noise from the nearby houses all day long, less mosquitoes, too.

Bouldering: There were about 30 problems in Nyamuk, most of them are overgrown.

How to Get Here

From Kuala Lumpur drive out on Jalan Kuching for approx. 10 km until you see a sign for Kuantan/ Batu Caves. you will already be able to see the rocks on your right. Exit and turn right (direction Kuantan). Follow the mainroad, just after the Batu Caves temples take the left lane (do not drive up to the fly over) . Approx. 1 km after the temple you reach a BPH Petrol station; turn left directly after the station into an area called Taman Industry Bolton. Follow this road till after an “S” and some rows of industrial shop houses you can turn left into Jalan TIB 3. Follow this road for about 150m (100m after right turn) and park your car at the left hand side.  Head left into the village next to a coffee shop called “ANIE”. Follow this street (lorong) till the end, there turn left and follow the trail to the rocks.

Morning/Afternoon Sun

The crag is east oriented and faces the sun in the morning

Routelist

Shieldtox

Name Difficulty Length  m # of bolts threads natural pro first ascent date
Two Pints 5b+ 12 4 P. Andrey 04/04/2003
Oxymoron 6c+ 27 11 P. Andrey 18/05/2003
Orange Juice 5b 14 4 P. Andrey 04/04/2003
Le futur n’est plus ce qu’il était 6c 30 11 P. Andrey 18/05/2003
Stigmata 7b 30 11 Kevin Tan 28/12/2003
Love at first bite 7b+ 31 11 Philip Lim 04/10/2003
Chess 7a 30 10 P. Andrey 04/04/2003
Don’t underbreak me 5c 30 10 2 P. Andrey 28/12/2003
Lau Beh 7a 30 12 P. Andrey 17/01/2004
Diaperjaya 6a+ 29 10 P. Andrey, J. Peet Sep-02
Bowel Movement 6a 29 8 J. Peet, P. Andrey Sep-02
Pear 7a 28 7 Adi Noor 31/03/2003
Harry’s code 7b 30 12 P.Andrey 27/08/2011
In Guns we trust 5c+ 30 10 P. Andrey 29/03/2003
34B 6b+ 30 13 A.M. Sanchez 22/08/2011
Bangsar Babes Backdrop 6a+ 30 10 P. Andrey 23/08/2003
Voltaren 6a 27 10 P. Andrey 23/08/2003
Kamchatka 5c+ 24 7 Fa / P. Andrey 17/04/2003
Shiok sendiri 6a+ 26 9 P. Andrey 17/04/2003
Hot tempered freaking glue gun 6b+ 31 10 Akmal Noor/P.Andrey 20/04/2003
Prophylaxis 7b+ 33 11 P. Andrey 10/05/2003

 

Dengue

Name Difficulty Length  m # of bolts threads natural pro first ascent date
Prophylaxis 7b+ 33 11 P. Andrey 10/05/2003
Sexual Harrassment Panda 7a 30 10 P. Andrey 17/09/2005
Foreign Investment 7a+ 31 12 P. Andrey 31/07/2002
Osmosis 7c 36 14 P. Andrey 25/06/2002
The Pledge 8a 26 9 P. Andrey 06/02/2003
IMM (integrated mosquito management) 8a+ 41 15 P. Andrey 26/04/2003
Pada Bing (project) 8b 28 10

 

Fumakilla

Name Difficulty Length  m # of bolts threads natural pro first ascent date
Moral Moron 7b 21 7 Adi Noor, P. Andrey 23/11/2003
Monkeyland 7a+ 19 6 P. Andrey 10/08/2003
Two Drops 6b 17 5 Jeremy Peet 21/06/2003
My favorite things 6b+ 15 4 Yves Gosselin/Andy Rylance 22/06/2003
Alam Flora 6b 12 3 P. Andrey 21/06/2003
Jalan Sehala 5c 11 4 P. Andrey 03/11/2002
Ilias 6b 12 4 P. Andrey 14/11/2002
Ulysse 6a+ 13 4 M. Bourret, P. Andrey Oct 2002
Training Day 1st pitch 5c 15 5 P.Andrey, Yen May 2002
Training Day 2nd pitch 5b+ 26 6 P.Andrey, J.Peet 21/06/2003
Training Day 3rd pitch 6b 30 11 P.Andrey, J.Peet 06/07/2003
Training Day 4th pitch 5c 16 3 1 J.Peet, P.Andrey 06/07/2003
1st May Variant 4a 17 3 1 P.Andrey, Yen May 2002
Labour Day 6a+ 14 4 P. Andrey 1. May 2003
Training rules 5c+ 17 6 David Roderick 26/10/2002
The Rules of Attraction 6c 16 6 P. Andrey 26/10/2002
Stupid with Manners 7a 16 5 P. Andrey 24/05/2003
David et la Marseilleaise 6c 18 5 Marco Bourret 16/11/2002
Dirk Diggler 5c 26 9 J. Peet, P. Andrey 14/11/2002
Firestarter 5b+ 27 9 1 J. Peet, P. Andrey 14/11/2002
Up in Smoke 5c 25 7 2 P. Andrey 01/05/2003
Because I got high 6b+ 16 5 P. Andrey 14/11/2002

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