Bukit Takun is a beautiful gigantic limestone outcrop sitting on a granite base, surrounded by real jungle and the Templer’s Golf Course. The Cliff is around 300m in height, the longest continuous walls are up to 230m. The crag hosts a variety of single and long multipitch routes, currently all of them situated at the east face. This place is also known for its trad routes, however, most of the routes and especially the new ones are bolted. The potential is enormous. For now (mid of 2013) the crag holds more than 80 routes featuring more than 120 pitches, making it the largest climbing area in the Klang region.
In sharp contrast to Batu Caves, this place is much closer to nature, less noisy and clean. The trails to the sectors need improvement, but this is a small price you pay for close to city solitude and climbing on excellent rock in a breathtaking environment.
How to Get Here
30 drive minutes out of the KL City Centre will get you to Bukit Takun. From Jalan Kuching drive North on Route 1 direction Rawang. Around 7km after Batu Caves you will see the Cliff to your right while coming down the hill. Keep driving till you can do a U-turn (500m after Shell Petrol Station to the right). After the U-turn take the left lane and turn left just before the petrol station to Templers Park. Reaching a T-junction turn right and skirt the Golf course. 50 meters after the entrance gates of the Golf Course you will reach a Y-Junction where you have to turn left and park 50 m further in front of the guard house.
GPS Coordinates: 3°18’05.0″N, 101°38’23.5″E
You have to register your name with the guard. After the gate follow the road by feet to the last villa (beware of the dogs!) where you head into the jungle. The trail leads straight up to Granite Base (Pussey Key). From there turn right to the Campground or left to the Galactic Cliff. For reaching the lower slopes, take the trail that heads to the left at a large banyan tree just 15 meter after the the Villa’s garden.
All routes on the east face (Battle Field, Jenga, Lower Slopes, Galactic Cliff, Granite Base and Big Hole) get sun in the morning before noon. Some of the routes (first pitches) are still in the shade. The central multi-pitch routes can be climbed after 1 pm.
West Bank and Elysium are facing west so are best climbed in the morning. Anna’s Garden is facing south and gets all day shade from May-Sept. Campground is facing north and is in the shade October – March.
All the sectors and their routes are listed left to right.
This sector constitutes a large ascending ledge on the right portion of Takun West Face. The ledge can be reached via a steep scramble following the path after and above “Elysium”. Exposure and approach are epic and comparable to the effort to get to the base of the Dragon’s Horns. If you want to climb here, better start early, since the sun will reach the wall after 1Pm, and up here there is little shade. Currently there is one route in the making,
|Man On A Mission|
|Pitch 1||6c||23||8||P.Andrey, Leong Dee Lu||30.11.2013|
|Pitch 2||6b+||27||10||P. Andrey, Brett Streatfeild||01.12.2013|
From Ana’s garden you can decend further down and around the corner to get into an amazing cave. The cave and the walls to its left and above constitute this new sector, facing west. The features at the cave ceiling are unique horns allowing to move horizontally in otherwise impossible terrain. The limestone is filled with a lots of quartzite, making the rock quality exceptional.
|Honourable Husbands||5c||25||8||P.Andrey, B. Streatfeild, A.M.Sanchez||24.12.2013|
|Tartarus 2nd pitch||6c||16||5||2||P.Andrey, Leong Dee Lu|
|Farewell to Bahktar||8a?||19||9||up the hold-less slab|
|Francistein||6c||26||10||P.Andrey, Fang Lim||29-Sep-13|
|21st Climber||6c||27||10||P. Andrey, Fang Lim (rp by Patrick on October 6)||29-Sep-13|
|21st Climber 2nd pitch||1||unfinished|
|So Horny||8c?||26||18||P.Andrey, A.M.Sanchez, F. Paquette, Zoe Lim||project|
|Okeanos||7a+||12||6||1||P.Andrey, F. Paquette, Zoe Lim||01/05/2013|
This sector lures at the lowest point of the crag, and faces south, thus is in the shade for most of the day. Conveniently it is also continuously overhanging, so that it stays dray even during rain storms. Currently there are a stunning 3 pitch route, a monster project and a tricky single pitch (with unfinished 2nd pitch) to be admired. More routes to follow.
|Pitch 1||7a||18||8||P. Andrey, A.M. Sanchez||Patrick Andrey, Aug. 2012|
|Pitch 2 (project)||6a||25||unfinished||–|
|Pitch 1||6c||18||7||P. Andrey, F.L. Lim, A.M. Sanchez||Patrick Andrey, July 2012|
|Pitch 2||5c||34||9||1||P. Andrey, F.L. Lim, A.M. Sanchez||Patrick Andrey, July 2012|
|Pitch 3||6b||18||6||1||P. Andrey, F.L. Lim, A.M. Sanchez, G. Chesne||Patrick Andrey, Aug. 2012|
|Safe Gard||7b+||20||8||P. Andrey||Matthew McGeever, June 2014|
GPS Coordinates: 3°18’06.3″N, 101°38’03.3″E
Take the leftmost trail at the large banyan tree to reach this sector. Or walk down (and left) from Jenga. The rock is defined by a series of large stalactites flowing over granite, limestone and limestone/quartz walls. At around 20m height is an intrusion of blocky granite, which should be climbed with care, since it has kind of alpine character. In the stalactite sections you will find some threads as the soft rock is not suitable for bolt placements. Some of the routes resemble classics of Tonsai (Thailand).
|Pitch 1||6c||26||13||1||Atle||James Mader, Aug. 2013|
|Pitch 2||6c||25||9||P. Andrey, James||P. Andrey, James Mader, Aug. 2013|
|Pitch 1||6b||29||11||3||A.M. Sanchez, P.Andrey||P. Andrey, A.M. Sanchez, Aug. 2013|
|Pitch 2||5c+||14||5||1||P. Andrey, Leong Dee Lu||P. Andrey, Aug. 2013|
|Pitch 3||5b+||30||9||P. Andrey, Leong Dee Lu, Fang Lim||P. Andrey, Sept. 2013|
|StegoFargo||7a+||20||7||P. Andrey||P. Andrey, Sept. 2013|
|Spock’s Girlfriend||6c+||20||7||A.M. Sanchez, P.Andrey||P. Andrey, July 2013|
|Fight or Flight||6a+||24||8||2||A.M. Sanchez, P.Andrey||A.M.Sanchez, July 2013|
|Pitch 1||6a+||24||10||P. Andrey, Dee Lu, Aaron||P. Andrey, July 2013|
|Pitch 2 (project)||7a||30||5||P. Andrey||–|
|The Flying Swiss Man||6b+||21||7||3||Aaron Caulin, P.Andrey||P. Andrey, Aug. 2013|
|Hammer Time||6c||21||9||P. Andrey||P. Andrey, July 2013|
|Go with the Flow||6c||25||12||Simon Wilson||Simon Wilson, July 2013|
|Chuck Norris||7a+||25||12||S.Wilson||Ola Przybysz, ?Jan 2014|
|Collateral Damage||combines Cita con Zita with Go with the Flow|
|Pitch 1||6a||27||12||–||P. Andrey, July 2013|
|Pitch 2||6b||17||7||P. Andrey||P. Andrey, Feb. 2015|
|Pitch 3||6b+||11||4||P. Andrey||P. Andrey, Feb. 2015|
|Cobwebs be gone||6a+||10||5||Leong Dee Lu||A.M. Sanchez, Aug. 2013|
|Cita con Zita||5c+||10||5||A.M. Sanchez||A.M. Sanchez, Aug. 2013|
In the Climb Asia guide book the epic Transtakunian Skyway is part of the sector “lower slopes”, however, the route starts a bit further down to the left and around a corner, in an area that is a totally different sector from rock appearance and route character.
Jenga is featuring low angled granite slabs that end up at about 17m height. Most easier routes end up here, while others continue into the lime stone section above, either as extension or as second pitch. The left part of the sector is covered by a large roof, hence stays fairly dry throughout the year. There are routes in all grades, and with “My Baby went surfing” debatably the easiest route in Klang Valley.
The first pitch of Transtakunian is now re-bolted, however, the following pitches are still equipped with old and rusty material. With newly bolted easier and straighter routes at the right it now makes more sense to start the multi-pitch journey with FYS or The Hump, so that the crazy traverse of the first pitch can be avoided. The Hump also has a second pitch into a cave called “Mjolnir” (name of Thor’s hammer), and a third one to follow.
|Jumar King||6c+||30||10||Ian Teh|
|Weasel’s Penthouse||6b||30||10||P. Andrey||11/02/2013|
|Year of the Snake||6b+||15||7||P. Andrey||10/02/2013|
|Midnight Call||6a+||15||6||Ian Teh, A.M Sanchez, P.Andrey||11/02/2013|
|Invaders must die||6a||30||11||P. Andrey||17/03/2013|
|Bye Bye Jerome||8a?||33||13||A.M. Sanchez, P. Andrey|
|My Baby went surfing||4a||18||6||P. Andrey||02/02/2013|
|Power Nap||8a?||30||1||P. Andrey|
|Gab the Gun||7b||30||10||P.Andrey, F.Paquette|
|Janus||6a||31||13||A.M. Sanchez, P. Andrey||27/04/2013|
|Transtakunian Skyway||7a+||P Andrich, D Estey, M Estey, E Burtscher, M Vasse||Apr-Jul 1997|
|1st pitch||5c||18||7||re-bolted by A.M. Sanchez on May25, 2013|
|Atle, the Snake Charmer||5c+||17||7||A.M. Sanchez||12/05/2013|
|Nothing Box||6c+||35||14||P. Andrey||25/05/2013|
|The Hump||5c||16||6||F.L. Lim||12/05/2013|
|Mjolnir||6b||21||12||F.L. Lim, Mike Mosher||26/05/2013|
The Lower Slopes have seen new bolting activities since 2012. This sector surprises with beautiful and technical slabs on solid coarse granite, pretty unique for Klang Valley. At the right of the sector there are routes that start with a granite slab and end with vertical limestone. Route lengths in between 18 and 30 meters. All routes are bolted with stainless steel material and feature proper anchors with pig-tails. Distances in between bolts are social.
There are some older routes at the left inclusive the nice 3 pitch climb The King’s birthday. We are going to re-bolt this climb, since the material is heinous and the route needs cleaning.
|The King’s Birthday||6a+||40||P Andrich, D Estey||07-Jun-97|
|2nd = 4th of T Skyway||6a+|
|3rd = 5th of T Skyway||6a|
|Warrior’s Dance||7b+?||26||11||P. Andrey (bolted 27 jan 2013)|
|A caballo regalado no se le mira el diente||6a||23||11||A.M. Sanchez, F.L. Lim||10-Feb-13|
|Tardigrade||6c+||20||7||P. Andrey (bolted 30 sept 2012)||26-Jan-13|
|Ancestors’ Territory||6b||20||7||P. Andrey||08-Oct-12|
|Turn Off||6a+||18||7||A.M. Sanchez||30-Sep-12|
|el tren de la arrechera||5b||18||6||P. Andrey||09-Sep-12|
|the cat is out of the bag||6b||18||6||P. Andrey||08-Sep-12|
|Graduated Memory Interval||6b||18||6||P. Andrey||08-Sep-12|
|Gabriel’s Route||6b+||29||11||P. Andrey||02-Sep-12|
|Mossicide||6b||29||11||A.M. Sanchez, P. Andrey||02-Sep-12|
|Mi Gatito y yo||6a+||30||13||A.M. Sanchez, P. Andrey||12/08/2012|
|Anger Management||7a||28||11||P. Andrey||25/08/2012|
|Remember the first time||6a||27||9||F.L. Lim||25/08/2012|
The Galactic Cliff hosts the best multi pitch routes in the Klang Valley and potential for some ultra hard and long routes. Currently there are 2 new (2012) routes leading up all the way to the top. Tyrannosaurus Rex and Stairway to Heaven are multi pitch classics set up in the late nineties.
Galactic Routes: General Considerations
Galactic routes to the top of Takun are a serious undertaking. The tropics are hot - take plenty of water (recommend 3 litres per person as a minimum). Helmets are suggested. The weather can change quickly in this area, and it is not unknown to be engulfed in thunderstorms. Takun attracts lots of lightening, so avoid the summit in a storm.
Take a watch, monitor your progress, and retreat if you're behind schedule: please leave the area by sunset as not to jeopardise continued access. (Torches are recommended in case of emergency, but please make every effort to leave by sunset).
High angle rescue services are very limited in Malaysia. Don't get yourself into anything that you can't get yourself out of.
Hand-held radios may be useful.
Gringos in the limelight, 230m, 7b, A0; 8 pitches (7c, 8c?, 7a, 6c, 8b?) 7a+, 6b+, 4c) was set up over a couple of weekends in Spring and first climbed on 18. March 2012, by Patrick Andrey, Travis Kale and David Ascott. The route is fully bolted and does not require additional gear (except maybe a sling at pitch 3 if you wish to shorten the run out). All hard moves can be avoided by pulling on gear, however, on pitch 2 you have to climb around 7b obligatoire to reach the next bolt (unless you have a veeeery long stick clip). This route starts with a steep 7c, combining the first three pitches of Exponential Starter to one epic 38m pitch. Another 7 pitches follow all the way to the true summit of Takun. Pitch 2 and Pitch 5 are the cruxes. Both pitches still await a redpoint ascent. Pitch 6 is one of the coolest 7ens in Malaysia: a stunning and super exposed dihedral 150m off the ground! Be aware of the last pitch (4a) having razor sharp flakes and above the last sling loose blocks. At the last sling traverse right, DO NOT GO STRAIGHT UP! You can walk down or rappel. It is recommended not to rappel this route since it is continuously overhanging and needs back-clipping. Better head to the right for 30 m (towards campground) and look for rappel bolts. This rappel line follows David and Friend’s new route down to a large ledge from where you can rappel to the ground skipping the first 3 traversing pitches. You need two 60 meter ropes!
The fastest descent is to follow the trail and abseils down to the Campground, then walk back to the guardhouse. This is only recommended if you are already familiar with the route.
Alternatively, rappel down “Get Out Of The Kitchen”:
Start: 30m below the true summit is a small rocky neck marked with a hangerless bolt next to a burned out tree stump. Rap anchors are visible below the stump.
I (30m) Down the gulley, then gently left to a standing ledge at the top of P8.
II (58m) Straight down to the sling under the stalactite at the start of P7.
III 4b (7m) 1B: scramble left to the next rap anchors
Option: EITHER IV or V
IV (56m) Down to swing into the Cramp Cave. Quick and easy, but possibility of ropes snagging on featured rock.
V(a) (28m): Down and slightly left to the small platform top of P4.
V(b) (28m): Hard right following the bolt line, then down to the Cramp Cave. This is a highly technical abseil with mandatory back-clipping. Don’t lose contact with the rock. The second will end up lost in space unless you tie both rope ends into the anchor.
VI (58m): From the lower right of the cave abseil through the trees to the ground.
Routelist We moved two routes from the Granite Base to this sector, since the upper part of those connects.
|China Girl||6a+||30||D Estey, P Andrich||13-Jul-97|
|Cerro’s Ladder||5c||26||S Brown, G Hustinx, D Estey||Apr-97|
|Stairway to Heaven||6a+||80||P Andrich, D Estey||07-Dec-97|
|pitch 1||6a+||20||up stalactite then move to the right to stance||07-Dec-97|
|3||6a+||20||P Andrich, D Estey, S Brown, C Wilson||Jun-99|
|4||6a+||20||S Brown, C Wilson||Jun-99|
|Tyrannosaurus Rex||7a+||80||P Andrich, D Estey||Jul-97|
|Toes and Tips||6b||18||P Andrich, A Foo||04-Feb-96|
|Exponential Starter||5c,A0||38||3 pitches (1st RP of all 3 in one by M. Eichdorn)||1996|
|pitch 1||5c||18||P Andrich, A Foo|
|2||A0||10||P Andrich, A Foo|
|3||A0||10||Pitch 3 – P Andrich, M Estey||05-Jan-97|
|Gringos in the Limelight||8b+||230||68||3||P. Andrey, T. Kale, D. Acott||18/03/2012|
|1st pitch||7c||38||13||combines 3 pitches of “exponential starter”|
|2||8b+||32||11||boulder off the stance, then technical all the way|
|3||7a||26||6||sharp rock with boulder move half way up|
|4||6c||28||10||up the stalactite|
|5||8b||17||6||right traverse and boulder at the roof; exposed!|
|6||7a+||22||8||slab into super dihedral: exposed!|
|Cosmic Approach||5,A1||45||P. Andrich, A. Foo||20/01/1996|
|Get out of the Kitchen||6b+, A0||220||D. Acott, S. Coupleux, C. Emerson|
|1st pitch; The Acid Test||6b+||18||7||first three bolts of “red legged cricket”|
|2; Sweat Bees Don’t Sting||5c+||22||6||2||left traverse|
|4; Golden Thread||6b+/A0||26||12||1||1 aid point|
|6||6a||20||6||pitch 5 and 6 can be combined|
|7||6b+/A0||35||12||2||1 aid point|
|8||6b+||28||8||preclip first bolt for safety|
|10||5b+||12||2||1||pitch 9 and 10 can be combined|
|Red Legged Cricket||6b+||18||S Brown, E Burtscher, M Santo||25-May-97|
|Jimeny Cricket||6b||18||S Brown, G Hustinx||18-May-97|
The granite base features the classic Pussey Key, which has a bolted start with 4 (basically 3) cool pitches, then moves into an adventure scramble on partly sharp, partly loose rock.
|Spider Line||6b||P Andrich, M Vasse, D Estey, Steve, Matthew||Jan-97|
|Rock Root||6b+||P Andrich, A Foo||Mar-96|
|Pussey Key||6a+||Pitches 1-3 P Andrich, A Foo,||Feb-Apr 1996|
|Pitch 4 P Andrich, M Estey||12-Jan-97|
|up pitches P Andrich, D Estey, Steve, Yuen Li||Mar-97|
|Raindance||7a+||E Burtscher, M Vasse||97|
|Magic Sensations||6b||P Andrich, D Estey, M Vasse||May-97|
|Hornet Direct||5+||np||S Brown, G Hustinx||Sep-97|
All routes are to the right of the obvious big hole featuring some graffity.
|Pra Nang Start||6b+/6c||E Burtscher, M Vasse,||07-Dec-97|
|Purple Haze||6b+||P Andrich, D Estey, G Hustinx||Sep-97|
|Pee Like a Man||6c||M Vasse, E Burtscher||14-Dec-97|
|Bee Calmed||6a+||np||S Brown, M Santo,||23-Nov-97|
|Note: Apparantly, a 3 pitch route requiring nuts and friends takes the direct line of Bee Calmed,|
|starting at an obvious wide crack right of Pee Like a Man. This route was climbed by Mr Ho, years ago.|
|93$ Fish||6b||D Estey, G Hustinx||23-Nov-97|
|Hong Kong Pound||D Estey, Matthew||Nov-98|
Following the pass alongside the cliff you will be reaching the saddle where a series of the oldest routes in Takun await. Here is also the start for the scramble to the top.
|Red Cloud||4c||np||P. Andrey||2003|
|Tatanka Tinka||6a||np||P. Andrey||2003|
|Atomic Arms||6c+||6||Yap Boh Heong, Gary Chong||87|
|Spiderman||2||Yap Boh Heong, Gary Chong||87|
Path to the top
From the Campground you can climb up to the first ledge then head left (with some bolts) to a point from where you can rope off. Continue to walk and scramble following faint paint markings all the way to the top. Nice view, sometimes exposed and sharp rock.
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