Bukit Takun

Bukit Takun is a beautiful gigantic limestone outcrop sitting on a granite base, surrounded by real jungle and  the Templer’s Golf Course. The Cliff is around 300m in height, the longest continuous walls are up to 230m. The crag hosts a variety of single and long multipitch routes, currently all of them situated at the east face. This place is also known for its trad routes, however, most of the routes and especially the new ones are bolted. The potential is enormous. For now (mid of 2013) the crag holds more than 80 routes featuring more than 120 pitches, making it the largest climbing area in the Klang region.

In sharp contrast to Batu Caves, this place is much closer to nature, less noisy and clean. The trails to the sectors need improvement, but this is a small price you pay for close to city solitude and climbing on excellent rock in a breathtaking environment.

How to Get Here

30 drive minutes out of the KL City Centre will get you to Bukit Takun. From Jalan Kuching drive North on Route 1 direction Rawang. Around 7km after Batu Caves you will see the Cliff to your right while coming down the hill. Keep driving till you can do a U-turn (500m after Shell Petrol Station to the right). After the U-turn take the left lane and turn left just before the petrol station to Templers Park. Reaching a T-junction turn right and skirt the Golf course. 50 meters after the entrance gates of the Golf Course you will reach a Y-Junction where you have to turn left and park 50 m further in front of the guard house.

GPS Coordinates:  3°18’05.0″N, 101°38’23.5″E

You have to register your name with the guard. After the gate follow the road by feet to the last villa (beware of the dogs!) where you head into the jungle. The trail leads straight up to Granite Base (Pussey Key). From there turn right to the Campground or left to the Galactic Cliff. For reaching the lower slopes, take the trail that heads to the left at a large banyan tree just 15 meter after the the Villa’s garden.

Morning/Afternoon Sun

All routes on the east face (Battle Field, Jenga, Lower Slopes, Galactic Cliff, Granite Base and Big Hole) get sun in the morning before noon. Some of the routes (first pitches) are still in the shade. The central multi-pitch routes can be climbed after 1 pm.

West Bank and Elysium are facing west so are best climbed in the morning. Anna’s Garden is facing south and gets all day shade from May-Sept. Campground is facing north and is in the shade October – March.

 

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The sectors

All the sectors and their routes are listed left to right.

Westbank

This sector constitutes a large ascending ledge on the right portion of Takun West Face. The ledge can be reached via a steep scramble following the path after and above “Elysium”. Exposure and approach are epic and comparable to the effort to get to the base of the Dragon’s Horns. If you want to climb here, better start early, since the sun will reach the wall after 1Pm, and up here there is little shade. Currently there is one route in the making,

Routename	Diff	m	bolts	slings		equipper	first ascent
Man On A Mission
Pitch 1	6c	23	8			P.Andrey, Leong Dee Lu	30.11.2013
Pitch 2	6b+	27	10			P. Andrey, Brett Streatfeild	01.12.2013
Pitch 3	5c	18	6			P.Andrey	08.12.2013
Pitch 4	5c	28	9			P.Andrey	18.01.2014
Pitch 5	6c	34	12			P.Andrey	24.01.2014

 

Elysium

From Ana’s garden you can decend further down and around the corner to get into an amazing cave. The cave and the walls to its left and above constitute this new sector, facing west. The features at the cave ceiling are unique horns allowing to move horizontally in otherwise impossible terrain. The limestone is filled with a lots of quartzite, making the rock quality exceptional.

Routename	Diff	m	bolts	slings		equipper	first ascent
Honourable Husbands	5c	25	8			P.Andrey, B. Streatfeild, A.M.Sanchez	24.12.2013
Tartarus	6b+	20	8			P.Andrey
Tartarus 2nd pitch	6c	16	5	2		P.Andrey, Leong Dee Lu
FourthyEight	6b+	17	6			P.Andrey	13.11.2013
Transversalis	7c?	26	11			P.Andrey
Arcadia	6b+	20	9			P.Andrey
Farewell to Bahktar	8a?	19	9			up the hold-less slab
Francistein	6c	26	10			P.Andrey, Fang Lim	29-Sep-13
21st Climber	6c	27	10			P. Andrey, Fang Lim (rp by Patrick on October 6)	29-Sep-13
21st Climber 2nd pitch			1			unfinished
So Horny	8c?	26	18			P.Andrey, A.M.Sanchez, F. Paquette, Zoe Lim	project
Okeanos	7a+	12	6	1		P.Andrey, F. Paquette, Zoe Lim	01/05/2013

 

Ana’s Garden

This sector lures at the lowest point of the crag, and faces south, thus is in the shade for most of the day. Conveniently it is also continuously overhanging, so that it stays dray even during rain storms. Currently there are a stunning 3 pitch route, a monster project and a tricky single pitch (with unfinished 2nd pitch) to be admired. More routes to follow.

Routename	Diff	m	bolts	slings		equipper	first ascent
The Swan			8
Pitch 1	7a	18	8			P. Andrey, A.M. Sanchez	Patrick Andrey, Aug. 2012
Pitch 2 (project)	6a	25				unfinished	–
Flacid
Pitch 1	6c	18	7			P. Andrey, F.L. Lim, A.M. Sanchez	Patrick Andrey, July 2012
Pitch 2	5c	34	9	1		P. Andrey, F.L. Lim, A.M. Sanchez	Patrick Andrey, July 2012
Pitch 3	6b	18	6	1		P. Andrey, F.L. Lim, A.M. Sanchez, G. Chesne	Patrick Andrey, Aug. 2012
Project	8b+?	34	12			P. Andrey	–
Safe Gard	7b+	20	8			P. Andrey	Matthew McGeever, June 2014
Project	8b?	34	15			P. Andrey	–
Project	7b+?	35				P. Andrey	–

 

Battle Field

GPS Coordinates:  3°18’06.3″N, 101°38’03.3″E

Take the leftmost trail at the large banyan tree to reach this sector. Or walk down (and left) from Jenga. The rock is defined by a series of large stalactites flowing over granite, limestone and limestone/quartz walls. At around 20m height is an intrusion of blocky granite, which should be climbed with care, since it has kind of alpine character. In the stalactite sections you will find some threads as the soft rock is not suitable for bolt placements. Some of the routes resemble classics of Tonsai (Thailand).

Routename	Diff	m	bolts	slings		equipper	first ascent
Bolt Overdose
Pitch 1	6c	26	13	1		Atle	James Mader, Aug. 2013
Pitch 2	6c	25	9			P. Andrey, James	P. Andrey, James Mader, Aug. 2013
Rock Surgeon
Pitch 1	6b	29	11	3		A.M. Sanchez, P.Andrey	P. Andrey, A.M. Sanchez, Aug. 2013
Pitch 2	5c+	14	5	1		P. Andrey, Leong Dee Lu	P. Andrey, Aug. 2013
Pitch 3	5b+	30	9			P. Andrey, Leong Dee Lu, Fang Lim	P. Andrey, Sept. 2013
StegoFargo	7a+	20	7			P. Andrey	P. Andrey, Sept. 2013
Spock’s Girlfriend	6c+	20	7			A.M. Sanchez, P.Andrey	P. Andrey, July 2013
Ext. (Project)	8a+	29	12			P.Andrey
Fight or Flight	6a+	24	8	2		A.M. Sanchez, P.Andrey	A.M.Sanchez, July 2013
Aaron Schwarzenegger
Pitch 1	6a+	24	10			P. Andrey, Dee Lu, Aaron	P. Andrey, July 2013
Pitch 2 (project)	7a	30	5			P. Andrey	–
The Flying Swiss Man	6b+	21	7	3		Aaron Caulin, P.Andrey	P. Andrey, Aug. 2013
Hammer Time	6c	21	9			P. Andrey	P. Andrey, July 2013
Go with the Flow	6c	25	12			Simon Wilson	Simon Wilson, July 2013
Chuck Norris	7a+	25	12			S.Wilson	Ola Przybysz,  ?Jan 2014
Collateral Damage						combines Cita con Zita with Go with the Flow
Pitch 1	6a	27	12			–	P. Andrey, July 2013
Pitch 2	6b	17	7			P. Andrey	P. Andrey, Feb. 2015
Pitch 3	6b+	11	4			P. Andrey	P. Andrey, Feb. 2015
Cobwebs be gone	6a+	10	5			Leong Dee Lu	A.M. Sanchez, Aug. 2013
Cita con Zita	5c+	10	5			A.M. Sanchez	A.M. Sanchez, Aug. 2013

 

Patrick bolting Aaron Schwarzenegger, 6a+ in Sector Battle Field

Jenga

In the Climb Asia guide book the epic Transtakunian Skyway  is part of the sector “lower slopes”, however, the route starts a bit further down to the left and around a corner, in an area that is a totally different sector from rock appearance and route character.

Jenga is featuring low angled granite slabs that end up at about 17m height. Most easier routes end up here, while others continue into the lime stone section above, either as extension or as second pitch.  The left part of the sector is covered by a large roof, hence stays fairly dry throughout the year. There are routes in all grades, and with “My Baby went surfing” debatably the easiest route in Klang Valley.

The first pitch of Transtakunian is now re-bolted, however, the following pitches are still equipped with old and rusty material. With newly bolted easier and straighter routes at the right it now makes more sense to start the multi-pitch journey with FYS or The Hump, so that the crazy traverse of the first pitch can be avoided. The Hump also has a second pitch into a cave called “Mjolnir” (name of Thor’s hammer), and a third one to follow.

 

Routename	Diff	m	bolts			equipper	first ascent
Jumar King	6c+	30	10			Ian Teh
Weasel’s Penthouse	6b	30	10			P. Andrey	11/02/2013
Year of the Snake	6b+	15	7			P. Andrey	10/02/2013
Midnight Call	6a+	15	6			Ian Teh, A.M Sanchez, P.Andrey	11/02/2013
Invaders must die	6a	30	11			P. Andrey	17/03/2013
Bye Bye Jerome	8a?	33	13			A.M. Sanchez, P. Andrey
My Baby went surfing	4a	18	6			P. Andrey	02/02/2013
Power Nap	8a?	30	1			P. Andrey
Gab the Gun	7b	30	10			P.Andrey, F.Paquette
Jenga	6a+	26	7	3		F.Paquette, P.Andrey
Janus	6a	31	13			A.M. Sanchez, P. Andrey	27/04/2013
Transtakunian Skyway	7a+					P Andrich, D Estey, M Estey, E Burtscher, M Vasse	Apr-Jul 1997
1st pitch	5c	18	7			re-bolted by A.M. Sanchez on May25, 2013
2	6c
3	5c
4	6a+
5	6a
6	7a+(A0)
Atle, the Snake Charmer	5c+	17	7			A.M. Sanchez	12/05/2013
Pungi	7b?	32	13			P. Andrey	18/05/2013
Nothing Box	6c+	35	14			P. Andrey	25/05/2013
FYS	5c	16	7			P. Andrey	27/04/2013
Unfinished	6c+?	20
The Hump	5c	16	6			F.L. Lim	12/05/2013
Mjolnir	6b	21	12			F.L. Lim, Mike Mosher	26/05/2013

 

Lower Slopes

The Lower Slopes have seen new bolting activities since 2012. This sector surprises with beautiful and technical slabs on solid coarse granite, pretty unique for Klang Valley. At the right of the sector there are routes that start with a granite slab and end with vertical limestone. Route lengths in between 18 and 30 meters. All routes are bolted with stainless steel material and feature proper anchors with pig-tails. Distances in between bolts are social.

There are some older routes at the left inclusive the nice 3 pitch climb The King’s birthday. We are going to re-bolt this climb, since the material is heinous and the route needs cleaning.

Routename	Diff	m	bolts			equipper	first ascent
Tarzan	6a+	22				S. Brown	01/11/1997
The King’s Birthday	6a+	40				P Andrich, D Estey	07-Jun-97
2nd = 4th  of T Skyway	6a+
3rd = 5th of T Skyway	6a
Warrior’s Dance	7b+?	26	11			P. Andrey (bolted 27 jan 2013)
UTI	6a	24	10			P. Andrey	20-Jan-13
A caballo regalado no se le mira el diente	6a	23	11			A.M. Sanchez, F.L. Lim	10-Feb-13
unfinished	6a+	20	7			Sushi
Tardigrade	6c+	20	7			P. Andrey (bolted 30 sept 2012)	26-Jan-13
Ancestors’ Territory	6b	20	7			P. Andrey	08-Oct-12
Turn Off	6a+	18	7			A.M. Sanchez	30-Sep-12
el tren de la arrechera	5b	18	6			P. Andrey	09-Sep-12
the cat is out of the bag	6b	18	6			P. Andrey	08-Sep-12
Graduated Memory Interval	6b	18	6			P. Andrey	08-Sep-12
Gabriel’s Route	6b+	29	11			P. Andrey	02-Sep-12
Mossicide	6b	29	11			A.M. Sanchez, P. Andrey	02-Sep-12
Mi Gatito y yo	6a+	30	13			A.M. Sanchez, P. Andrey	12/08/2012
Anger Management	7a	28	11			P. Andrey	25/08/2012
Remember the first time	6a	27	9			F.L. Lim	25/08/2012

 

Galactic Cliff

The Galactic Cliff hosts the best multi pitch routes in the Klang Valley and potential for some ultra hard and long routes. Currently there are 2 new (2012) routes leading up all the way to the top. Tyrannosaurus Rex and Stairway to Heaven are multi pitch classics set up in the late nineties.

Galactic Routes: General Considerations

Galactic routes to the top of Takun are a serious undertaking. The tropics are hot - take plenty of water (recommend 3 litres per person as a minimum).  Helmets are suggested.  The weather can change quickly in this area, and it is not unknown to be engulfed in thunderstorms.  Takun attracts lots of lightening, so avoid the summit in a storm.

Take a watch, monitor your progress, and retreat if you're behind schedule: please leave the area by sunset as not to jeopardise continued access. (Torches are recommended in case of emergency, but please make every effort to leave by sunset).

High angle rescue services are very limited in Malaysia.  Don't get yourself into anything that you can't get yourself out of.

Hand-held radios may be useful.

Gringos in the limelight, 230m,  7b, A0; 8 pitches (7c, 8c?, 7a, 6c, 8b?) 7a+, 6b+, 4c) was set up over a couple of weekends in Spring and first climbed on 18. March 2012, by Patrick Andrey, Travis Kale and David Ascott. The route is fully bolted and does not require additional gear (except maybe a sling at pitch 3 if you wish to shorten the run out). All hard moves can be avoided by pulling on gear, however, on pitch 2 you have to climb around 7b obligatoire to reach the next bolt (unless you have a veeeery long stick clip). This route starts with a steep 7c, combining the first three pitches of Exponential Starter to one epic 38m pitch. Another 7 pitches follow all the way to the true summit of Takun. Pitch 2  and Pitch 5  are the cruxes. Both pitches still await a redpoint ascent. Pitch 6 is one of the coolest 7ens in Malaysia: a stunning and super exposed dihedral 150m off the ground! Be aware of the last pitch (4a) having razor sharp flakes and above the last sling loose blocks. At the last sling traverse right, DO NOT GO STRAIGHT UP! You can walk down or rappel. It is recommended not to rappel this route since it is continuously overhanging and needs back-clipping. Better head to the right for 30 m (towards campground) and look for  rappel bolts. This rappel line follows David and Friend’s new route down to a large ledge from where you can rappel to the ground skipping the first 3 traversing pitches. You need two 60 meter ropes!

Takun descent

The fastest descent is to follow the trail and abseils down to the Campground, then walk back to the guardhouse. This is only recommended if you are already familiar with the route.

Alternatively, rappel down “Get Out Of The Kitchen”:
Start:  30m below the true summit is a small rocky neck marked with a hangerless bolt next to a burned out tree stump.  Rap anchors are visible below the stump.
I (30m) Down the gulley, then gently left to a standing ledge at the top of P8.
II (58m) Straight down to the sling under the stalactite at the start of P7.
III 4b (7m) 1B: scramble left to the next rap anchors
Option: EITHER IV or V
IV (56m) Down to swing into the Cramp Cave.  Quick and easy, but possibility of ropes snagging on featured rock.
OR
V(a) (28m): Down and slightly left to the small platform top of P4.
V(b) (28m): Hard right following the bolt line, then down to the Cramp Cave. This is a highly technical abseil with mandatory back-clipping. Don’t lose contact with the rock.  The second will end up lost in space unless you tie both rope ends into the anchor.
VI (58m): From the lower right of the cave abseil through the trees to the ground.

Routelist We moved two routes from the Granite Base to this sector, since the upper part of those connects.

Routename	Diff	m	bolts			equipper	first ascent
China Girl	6a+	30				D Estey, P Andrich	13-Jul-97
Cerro’s Ladder	5c	26				S Brown, G Hustinx, D Estey	Apr-97
Stairway to Heaven	6a+	80				P Andrich, D Estey	07-Dec-97
pitch 1	6a+	20				up stalactite then move to the right to stance	07-Dec-97
2	5+	15				through tunnel	07-Dec-97
3	6a+	20				P Andrich, D Estey, S Brown, C Wilson	Jun-99
4	6a+	20				S Brown, C Wilson	Jun-99
Tyrannosaurus Rex	7a+	80				P Andrich, D Estey	Jul-97
1st pitch	6c+
2	7a+ (A0)					traverse
3	6b
4	6b
Toes and Tips	6b	18				P Andrich, A Foo	04-Feb-96
Exponential Starter	5c,A0	38				3 pitches (1st RP of all 3 in one by M. Eichdorn)	1996
pitch 1	5c	18				P Andrich, A Foo
2	A0	10				P Andrich, A Foo
3	A0	10				Pitch 3 – P Andrich, M Estey	05-Jan-97
Gringos in the Limelight	8b+	230	68	3		P. Andrey, T. Kale, D. Acott	18/03/2012
1st pitch	7c	38	13			combines 3 pitches of “exponential starter”
2	8b+	32	11			boulder off the stance, then technical all the way
3	7a	26	6			sharp rock with boulder move half way up
4	6c	28	10			up the stalactite
5	8b	17	6			right traverse and boulder at the roof; exposed!
6	7a+	22	8			slab into super dihedral: exposed!
7	6b+	40	12			sharp rock
8	4a	30	2	3		razor rock!
Cosmic Approach	5,A1	45				P. Andrich, A. Foo	20/01/1996
pitch 1	5
2	A1
3	A0
Get out of the Kitchen	6b+, A0	220				D. Acott, S. Coupleux, C. Emerson
1st pitch; The Acid Test	6b+	18	7			first three bolts of “red legged cricket”
2; Sweat Bees Don’t Sting	5c+	22	6	2		left traverse
3	6a	25	4	4		left traverse
4; Golden Thread	6b+/A0	26	12	1		1 aid point
5	5c	14	3			straight up
6	6a	20	6			pitch 5 and 6 can be combined
7	6b+/A0	35	12	2		1 aid point
8	6b+	28	8			preclip first bolt for safety
9	6a	18	3	2		straight up
10	5b+	12	2	1		pitch 9 and 10 can be combined
Red Legged Cricket	6b+	18				S Brown, E Burtscher, M Santo	25-May-97
Jimeny Cricket	6b	18				S Brown, G Hustinx	18-May-97

 

Granite Base

The granite base features the classic Pussey Key, which has a bolted start with 4 (basically 3) cool pitches, then moves into an adventure scramble on partly sharp, partly loose rock.

Routename	Diff	m	bolts			equipper	first ascent
Beginner’s	5					P Andrich	16-Jun-96
Spider Line	6b					P Andrich, M Vasse, D Estey, Steve, Matthew	Jan-97
Rock Root	6b+					P Andrich, A Foo	Mar-96
Pussey Key	6a+					Pitches 1-3 P Andrich, A Foo,	Feb-Apr 1996
						Pitch 4 P Andrich, M Estey	12-Jan-97
						up pitches P Andrich, D Estey, Steve, Yuen Li	Mar-97
Raindance	7a+					E Burtscher, M Vasse	97
Magic Sensations	6b					P Andrich, D Estey, M Vasse	May-97
Hornet Direct	5+				np	S Brown, G Hustinx	Sep-97

 

Big Hole

All routes are to the right of the obvious big hole featuring some graffity.

Routename	Diff	m	bolts			equipper	first ascent
Pra Nang Start	6b+/6c					E Burtscher, M Vasse,	07-Dec-97
Purple Haze	6b+					P Andrich, D Estey, G Hustinx	Sep-97
Pee Like a Man	6c					M Vasse, E Burtscher	14-Dec-97
Bee Calmed	6a+				np	S Brown, M Santo,	23-Nov-97
Note: Apparantly, a 3 pitch route requiring nuts and friends takes the direct line of Bee Calmed,
starting at an obvious wide crack right of Pee Like a Man. This route was climbed by Mr Ho, years ago.
93$ Fish	6b					D Estey, G Hustinx	23-Nov-97
Hong Kong Pound						D Estey, Matthew	Nov-98

Campground

Following the pass alongside the cliff you will be reaching the saddle where a series of the oldest routes in Takun await. Here is also the start for the scramble to the top.

Routename	Diff	m	bolts			equipper	first ascent
Red Cloud	4c				np	P. Andrey	2003
Cheromino	5c+				np	P. Andrey	2003
Tatanka Tinka	6a				np	P. Andrey	2003
Atomic Arms	6c+	6				Yap Boh Heong, Gary Chong	87
No Name					np
Spiderman		2				Yap Boh Heong, Gary Chong	87
No Name					np
Terminator	4c				np
No Name	7a	7

 

Path to the top

From the Campground you can climb up to the first ledge then head left (with some bolts) to a point from where you can rope off. Continue to walk and scramble following faint paint markings all the way to the top. Nice view, sometimes exposed and sharp rock.